Not too long ago, it seemed you’d be hard put to come up with a less glamorous food than canned tuna or sardines. Over the past few years, however, canned fish has experienced a surge in popularity. While we can’t say for sure, we suspect it might have something to do with people adopting the Britishism “tinned” instead of canned because everything sounds more glamorous when referred to in a different language. (Just think, if we all started calling it “poisson en conserve,” it would be practically haute cuisine.) Now that canned fish has gotten so fancy — you can even find tinned fish on charcuterie boards — we naturally need to assign it some wine pairings, so The Takeout consulted head winemaker Vince Vidrine from Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden in Oregon. Vidrine helped us with a few suggestions, but he first noted that there’s a difference between fish canned in oil and water.
“Oily fish generally makes me crave bright, citrusy, salty, super acidic whites,” says Vidrine, explaining, “The acid cuts the oiliness and balances the experience.” Water-packed fish, on the other hand, he says, could stand “a little more richness and mouthfeel [to] help bring increased interest and overall balance.” His top pick for oily sardines would be a viognier, a white varietal that is dry but not too dry. For water-packed tuna, he prefers Marsanne-Roussanne, a blend of two grape styles resulting in a medium-bodied white with mineral and fruity flavors. Vidrine describes this wine as “lush and textural” and says it “transports me to the south of France.”
What are some other canned fish-wine pairings?
While Vince Vidrine spoke of canned tuna and sardines, there are a number of other types of canned fish that can readily be found on supermarket shelves. Mackerel, which is known for being on the fatty side (and is a surprisingly popular currency in the prison system), can be paired with a light, dry white such as sauvignon blanc, although it would also go with a sweeter riesling or even a rose. A lighter-bodied red like a merlot or pinot noir would work well with mackerel, too. Herring goes best with sauvignon blanc, riesling, or a sparkling wine such as cava or prosecco. Salty anchovies, on the other hand, are best with high-acid whites such as Spain’s albariño or Italy’s Vermentino, although a domestic chablis would also do the trick.
Canned shellfish, as well, can be complemented by the right wine. Mussels in a vinegary escabeche are excellent with Spanish wines like albariño or txakoli, although some people like to pair the dish with fortified wines such as vermouth or sherry. Canned razor clams also go well with sherry (particularly the palomino variety), while canned smoked oysters are perfect with pinot grigio. As for caviar, the world’s fanciest canned seafood, popular culture appears to have enshrined as canon that this can only be served with sparkling wine.
