To keep hunger at bay, and provide some ballast for cocktails, I suggest crudités—with an Italian twist. Bagna cauda, literally translated as “hot bath,” is a Piedmontese dip of anchovies, garlic, olive oil and butter cooked slow and low to a thick, unctuous spread. The anchovies dissolve into the mix to lend an earthy umami depth while the garlic sweetens things up. Deeply savory and moreish, bagna cauda is anything but fishy—mellow enough to convert any confirmed anchovy hater. I’ve made it for the past 20 Thanksgivings and can attest to a high conversion rate.
Bagna cauda is simple to make and, thanks to the high-fat content, holds well in the refrigerator for a week or more (anything make-ahead helps out come the big day). The Milk Street version of the Italian classic adds bay leaves and rosemary to round out the flavor (thyme is good too in a pinch) and chili flakes to punch through the fat. A finishing shot of lemon juice brightens the otherwise hefty flavors.
In traditional bagna cauda, the garlic and anchovies separate to the bottom upon standing. To avoid this, we blended the mixture after cooking to yield a silky, emulsified dip. I recommend sourcing good quality anchovies—no anchovy paste!—for the best results. Pile the anchovies and garlic together on a cutting board and mince all at once to save on prep time.
As its name suggests, bagna cauda is best served warm. Whip it up in a small butter-warming pan or saucepan that you can rewarm as needed, or set over a Sterno flame. Pair it with most any vegetable: spears of raw fennel, endive leaves, tender carrots, sliced radishes and lightly blanched cauliflower, asparagus or broccolini.
If you happen to have leftovers, bagna cauda tastes good on most anything—blanched or roasted vegetables, seared steak, salmon, pasta, crusty toast, fried eggs, or right off the spoon.
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