Why It Works
- Using a sturdy same-day dough (and a light hand with toppings at the center of the pie) ensures a crisp crust that can hold up to heavy-duty toppings.
- Seasoning the cheese, not just the sauce, suffuses extra taco flavor into each bite.
- A homemade taco sauce does double duty in this recipe, adding piquancy to both the pizza sauce and the finished pie.
It’s impossible to write about Iowa taco pizza without mentioning Happy Joe’s, the Iowa-based chain that debuted the “TacoJoe” pizza in the late 1970s. I owe much to Happy Joe’s, including my existence—my parents had their first date there. But taco pizza has spread far beyond the restaurant’s borders to become a de facto state dish, with versions on the menu at most Iowa pizza parlors.
The gold standard is a crispy, chewy crust with the nostalgic toppings of a school cafeteria taco, right down to its shell: a piquant refried bean base, heavily seasoned ground beef, shredded iceberg lettuce that wilts into the cheese, plump chunks of fresh tomato, briny black olives straight from the can, and a roof of crumbled orange “taco chips” so heavily seasoned they feather on the tongue.
Happy Joe’s founder Lawrence “Joe” Whitty told the Des Moines Register that he added those chips because the pizza “wasn’t pretty enough,” which I find inspiring. It’s easy to appreciate the beauty of a bubbly, leopard-spotted, chastely topped Neapolitan pie. But there is also beauty, I contend, in this maximalist Midwestern innovation—a dish that dares to ask not “What if a pizza could be a casserole?” but instead “What if a casserole could be a pizza?”
The danger of all those casserole-esque toppings? Flopsog. At less vigilant pizza parlors, it’s not uncommon to pick up a slice and have the toppings immediately abandon the crust for your plate. Sure, with a pizza this fully loaded, a little topping drip is inevitable. But we’re trying to build a better bear.
Lorena Masso
3 Simple Rules For the Ultimate Iowa Taco Pizza
To that end, here are three simple rules for achieving a great Iowa taco pizza at home.
1. Start with a sturdier crust. The toppings on an Iowa taco pizza strain decorum—they’ll certainly strain a too-delicate crust. The ideal crust should be crisp and chewy, but not thick and bready.
To that end, I’m supplying a recipe for a New York–style dough that comes together quickly in the food processor, similar to Kenji’s recipe. This version comes in at a slightly lower hydration and incorporates diastatic malt powder, which aids browning and oven spring—a rapid initial rise that helps create bubbly, puffy crusts—while adding a subtle malty sweetness to the crust. My recipe also adds time for a 15-minute autolyse to aid gluten development, a technique inspired by frequent Serious Eats contributor Andrew Janjigian.
You can make the dough up to a day in advance, but these techniques should yield a crust that tastes great the same day, allowing you to feast on taco pizza with comparatively little planning. Regardless of whether you use my dough or another dough recipe, take care not to load too many toppings in the very center of the pie—that’s a path that can only lead to flopsog and suffering.
2. Season (and freeze) the cheese. Growing up, there was almost always a bagged blend of “taco cheese” in our refrigerator—usually, finely shredded Monterey Jack and Colby stippled with a cumin-heavy spice blend. While the flavor profile is ideal for Iowa taco pizza, please don’t buy pre-shredded cheese—it doesn’t melt evenly, thanks to the starch manufacturers add to keep it from clumping together in the bag. Instead, toss a little taco seasoning with a freshly shredded blend of Monterey Jack and mild cheddar. (In blind tests, I far preferred the seasoned to nude cheese.)
The other trick here is freezing the cheese about 15 minutes before you scatter it on the pizza and bake the pie, a step Kenji recommends for his New York–style pies. That quick blast in the freezer ensures the cheese won’t burn in the oven before your crust can fully browned.
3. Make your own taco sauce. The crowning glory of any good Iowa taco pizza isn’t just the chips, but the sauce—a generous drizzle of a tomato-based “taco sauce,” most often squeezed from individual packets. I no longer live near a Happy Joe’s, so to get a good baseline, I grabbed a larcenous amount of taco sauce packets from a chain that rhymes with “Guac Hotel.” After cooking enough batches to permanently alter my stomach lining, I landed on a taco sauce recipe that leans on whole canned tomatoes for a fresher, brighter flavor, white vinegar for naked acidity, Worcestershire and MSG for umami depth, and cayenne for heat that you can dial up or down to your preference (consider the base recipe here a Guac Hotel medium).
The only fussy step here is blending it with a fractional amount of xanthan gum. You can leave it out, but xanthan gum is one of a few Mysterious Powders I recommend every cook keep in their pantry for silky sauces and stable emulsions (you’ll never have to shake your homemade hot sauce again). Plus, the taco sauce gets used both in the pizza sauce and on its own as a final drizzle, so it’s worth a little extra effort.
The result of your cumulative efforts will be, to quote my husband, a “crunch sandwich”: a crisp-bottomed and chewy crust, a super savory tortilla-chip lid, and a gooey, saucy party dip of cheese and beef and beans in between.
Other pizzas can dazzle with their elegance and restraint. This is a pizza designed to satisfy the goblins of the world—Iowans, I suppose, but also anyone who, like Joe Whitty, can appreciate the “prettiness” of a crumbled chip.
This Midwestern Taco Pizza Is Maximalist in All the Right Ways
Cook Mode
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For the Crust:
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360 g (2.5 cups) bread flour
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1.5 g (1/2 teaspoon) instant yeast
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7 g (2 teaspoons) diastatic malt powder
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7 g (1.5 teaspoons) oil
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227 g (1 cup) water
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7 g (2 teaspoons) Diamond Crystal Kosher kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume
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1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil, for brushing before baking
For the Taco Sauce (see notes):
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1 (14.5-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes
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1/2 cup (120 ml) water
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3 tablespoons (45 ml) white vinegar
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1/2 tablespoon (7.5 ml) Worcestershire sauce
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1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
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1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
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3/4 teaspoon garlic powder
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3/4 teaspoon ground cayenne
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1 teaspoon smoked paprika
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1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume
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1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate, MSG (optional)
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1/8 teaspoon xanthan gum (optional)
For the Toppings:
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2 teaspoons ground cumin
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1 teaspoon chili powder
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3/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume
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1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
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1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
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1/2 teaspoon onion powder
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1/4 teaspoon coriander
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1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
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2 teaspoons (10 ml) neutral oil such as vegetable or canola oil
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12 ounces ground beef, 80/20
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4 ounces (113 g) canned refried beans, preferably reduced sodium
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4 ounces canned, unseasoned pure tomato sauce
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2 ounces prepared taco sauce from recipe above
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4 ounces mild cheddar cheese, shredded on the largest holes of a box grater (about 1 cup)
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4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded on the largest holes of a box grater (about 1 cup)
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2 scant cups (90 g) iceberg lettuce, finely shredded
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1 Plum or Roma tomato (about 80 g), diced
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1 (2.25 ounce) can sliced black olives
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120 g (4 ounces) taco-flavored tortilla chips (such as Doritos taco flavor tortilla chips), crumbled roughly into quarter-size pieces
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Sour cream for garnish (optional)
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For the Crust: In bowl of a food processor, add flour, yeast, and malt powder and pulse until combined, about 5 pulses. With food processor running, add oil and water in a steady stream until dough comes together, about 30 seconds. Stop processing and let dough rest in the bowl for 15 minutes. After the rest, add salt and process until salt is thoroughly incorporated and the dough forms a smooth ball, about 30 seconds more.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Transfer dough to a clean countertop or cutting board and knead by hand until smooth and elastic, 1-2 minutes. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled container, cover tightly in plastic, and let rise at room temperature (70-75℉) until roughly doubled in size, about 3 hours.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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After 3 hours, divide dough into 2 even portions (about 300 g each) and shape into smooth, tight balls. Transfer dough balls to a lightly oiled baking sheet, leaving plenty of room for them to expand. Brush or spray tops of dough balls with a thin layer of oil and cover tightly with plastic wrap.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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If Baking the Same Day: Let dough rise at room temperature until puffy and passes the “poke test,” about 1 more hour.
If Baking Later: After dividing dough, refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. Let refrigerated dough come to room temperature before baking, which should take an additional 1 to 2 hours ( see notes).
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For the Taco Sauce: While dough balls proof, in a small saucepan, combine whole peeled tomatoes, water, vinegar, Worcestershire, cumin, onion powder, garlic powder, cayenne, smoked paprika, salt, and MSG (if using). Heat over medium-high, stirring frequently, until mixture comes to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon, until flavors meld, about five minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Remove saucepan from heat and add xanthan gum (if using). Process with an immersion blender until mixture is smooth and silky, about 15 seconds. (Alternatively, transfer to a food processor and process until smooth.)
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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For the Pizza: One hour before baking, set a baking stone or steel on the middle rack of an oven and preheat to 500℉ (260℃).
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In a small bowl, combine cumin, chili powder, kosher salt, Mexican oregano, smoked paprika, onion powder, coriander, and garlic powder and whisk vigorously with a fork to combine. In a medium bowl, add 1 teaspoon of this spice mixture, cheddar, and Monterey Jack cheeses and toss to combine. Cover cheese and freeze for 15 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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In a large cast iron or nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add beef and 5 teaspoons of prepared spice mixture and cook, breaking up beef with a wooden spoon or spatula until browned, about 4 minutes. Remove beef from heat and transfer to a fine mesh strainer placed over a bowl to drain.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Working with one dough ball at a time, transfer dough to a clean, lightly floured work surface. Gently press out dough into an 8-inch circle, then stretch out dough into a 12-inch circle (about 1/4 inch thick) by draping over knuckles. Transfer dough round to a well-floured pizza peel.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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In a medium bowl, whisk together refried beans, tomato sauce, and half of taco sauce until mixture is smooth. Spread half of sauce mixture (about 1/2 cup) over surface of one pie, being careful not to overload the center and leaving about a 3/4 inch border along the edge.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Working quickly, sprinkle half of beef mixture (4 ounces) over sauce, using an especially light hand for the center of the pie. Remove cheese from freezer and sprinkle half (4 ounces; about 1 cup) evenly over the surface of the pie. Dot with half (1 ounce) of sliced olives. Brush crust with olive oil and slide pie onto baking steel or stone. Bake until crust is golden brown and puffy, 15 to 18 minutes.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Remove pizza from oven and transfer to wire rack to cool. Top immediately with shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, and crushed tortilla chips. Let cool on rack for 3 minutes before transferring to a cutting board. Drizzle pie with taco sauce and dollop with sour cream, if using. Cut into six slices and serve. Repeat shaping, topping, and baking the other pizza.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Notes
Letting the dough develop slowly in the fridge to proof for 1 to 2 days will improve its flavor and texture.
In an airtight container, taco sauce will keep in the fridge for up to three weeks and in the freezer for up to six months.
Doritos makes “taco flavor” tortilla chips in a retro-hued bag, and those are your best bet for a widely available Happy Joe’s clone. If taco-flavored tortilla chips aren’t available at your grocery store, you can substitute an equivalent weight of nacho cheese flavored Doritos or similar. Do not use unflavored tortilla chips.
You can substitute a store-bought taco sauce for the homemade sauce if desired; look for a jarred sauce labeled “taco sauce,” not a hot sauce or canned enchilada sauce, which will differ in heat and consistency.
You can also sub in your favorite New York–style pizza dough recipe for the dough recipe here, though your experience with flopsog may vary. For extra insurance when substituting doughs, try parbaking the crust for a couple minutes before topping.
Special Equipment
Large skillet, 2-quart saucepan, food processor, pizza peel, pizza steel or stone, wire baking rack
Make-Ahead and Storage
The taco sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
The dough can be made and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead.