:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/Smoked-Beer-Guide-FT-BLOG1024-Alaskan-Curtis-Holmes-764a102f86a148dbac19fc30d5f66559.jpg "What Is Smoked Beer? Here’s What to Know, and 5 to Try")
Smoked beer makes up a tiny percentage of the U.S. market, but it’s a polarizing style, even among hardcore beer fans. From lightly smoked helles lagers to intense, full-bodied rauchbiers, these beers utilize smoked malts. Styles can vary widely, depending on the different types of wood and length of time used by the maltster. As a result, they can impart different levels of smokiness.
“Historically, all beer at one point probably was smoky,” says Ben Smith, vice president of brewing operations at Surly Brewing Company in Minneapolis. “Initially, when people were drying malted barley, they were using a kind of a direct fire system, where you’re going to get some smoke coming through the malt as it’s drying.” Today, malts are dried indirectly in kilns to avoid that smoky essence, unless smokiness is the goal.
It can take a little getting used to smoked beers. Thankfully, they tend to play well with other flavors.
“Smoked beers are surprisingly versatile for food pairings,” says Tim Adams, founder of Oxbow Brewing Company in Oxbow, Maine.
Adams points out that the capital of smoked beer is considered to be Bamberg, Germany, so he suggests to start with traditional pork and cabbage-focused German cuisine. Smith says it’s best to start pairing “like with like.” For example, smoky barbecue marries well with a more delicately smoked beer. However, he cautions against pairing desserts or other sweet flavors that may exacerbate the harshness of smoked malt.
Brian Yaeger, founder of the Diff’rent Smokes festival of rauchbiers and a self-described smoked beer enthusiast, says to have fun and remain open-minded. “Rauchbier is the most punk rock style,” he says. “It is awesome, but it’s easy to understand why it’s a turn-off to many, so brewing and drinking it is a delectable middle finger to the masses in a way no other craft beer style is.”
Here are a few suggestions for beers to get your smoke on.
Surly Brewing Company – You Want This Smoke
Food & Wine / Surly Brewing Company
Smith calls this taproom-only light German lager an homage to the smoked beer tradition of Bamberg, Germany. It’s a great introduction to the style, thanks to the small amount of beech-smoked malt used, mostly for aroma and a hint of flavor.
“Halfway through the pint, you almost don’t even taste the smoke anymore,” says Smith. After the first few sips, he says, the rest of the beer’s character starts to shine through. “It’s low ABV [at 4.5%], so you can have two or three of them. They’re great in a mug at Oktoberfest.”
Oxbow Brewing Company – Oxtoberfest
Food & Wine / Oxbow Brewing Company
As a Marzen-inspired smoked bière de garde, Oxtoberfest draws inspiration from Belgian, German, and French brewing traditions, says Adams. “The majority of our smoked beers are yeast-driven, Belgian-style farmhouse ales, “ he says. “There are very few examples of smoked beers in modern Belgian brewing, but we find the smoke character to be complementary to the fruit and spice flavor found in these styles.”
Oktoberfest lands at 6% ABV with a deft balance between the malt and yeast profiles. It has a moderate amount of smoke in the finish, but it goes down smoothly, especially paired with a soft Bavarian pretzel.
Dovetail Brewery – Grodziskie
Food & Wine / Dovetail Brewery
Grodziskies are one of the more subtly smoked styles in the category. Often difficult to find, they are among the best entry points, thanks to their light body and low alcohol levels. Dovetail’s seasonal take on the style comes in at 3.8% ABV, and it balances between a citrusy brightness and light smokiness, wrapped up in a medium body and refreshing finish.
Alaskan Brewing Company – Smoked Porter
Food & Wine / Alaskan Brewing Company
Rauchbier, which translates to “smoke beer” in German, didn’t make its way to the U.S. until 1988. That’s when Alaskan first launched its smoked porter, a groundbreaking smoky brew that helped introduce American drinkers to the style. Alaskan’s Smoked Porter has won more medals at the Great American Beer Festival than any beer in history. It’s rich, complex, and ages beautifully, but it can also be enjoyed fresh.
Threes Brewing – Thought Experiment Smoked Peach
Food & Wine / Threes Brewing
Matt Levy, head brewer at Threes Brewing in Brooklyn, New York, is behind the brand’s Thought Experiment series, in which smoked helles is taken out of an oak foeder and aged on whole fruit from their barrel-aged program. The peach iteration comes in at 5.2% ABV with a bubbly saison body and bright fruit expression, accented by an evocative smoke note.
“There’s something primal about the flavor,” says Levy, who urges beer lovers to taste a range of smoked styles. “Why not try and see if you can find one that you like?”
